The durian, for those of you who've never seen one, is a Southeast Asian fruit that looks like a fiercely weaponized pineapple. It's prickly. It's pricey. And it's oh so pungent. And you will never forget your first whiff, says Zamzani Abdul Wahab — the Malaysian celebrity chef better known as Chef Zam — who remembers the first time two of his foreign friends got theirs when they visited him in Kuala Lumpur a few years back. "They almost died, and I had to call an ambulance on them," he says, laughing. He may be exaggerating — but just a little. Last month, more than 500 people were evacuat...
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